10 May 2024

Driving into Saint-Aignan from the north






If you're coming from Blois or Paris, you'll probably arrive at Saint-Aignan this way. You'll cross the town's bridge. I haven't found any information about how old it is. The town church and the château de Saint-Aignan are built on a promontory on the left bank of the river. The narrow cobblestoned road into town runs southeast diagonally from the bridge before turning south. The population of the town is just less than 3,000. We don't live in town itself but in a neighboring village. Our house is less than two miles from the bridge and from the château. I took these photos in May 2017 — seven years ago.

09 May 2024

May holidays, and an air-roasted chicken

This year, two public holidays in France have fallen on the 8th and the 9th of May. I don't know how unusual that is. Yesterday was La Fête de la Victoire de 1945, also called Le 8 mai. It's called VE Day in English. It's the celebration of the day in 1945 when Nazi Germany was finally defeated by the Allies.

Today is the religious holiday called L'Ascension in French. It's sometimes called the 40th day of Easter. It's the day when Jesus Christ is believed to have ascended to Heaven after having been crucified and then resurrected from the grave on Earth. Ascension day is 40 days after Easter so it falls on different days the way Easter does.  VE Day is always on May 8.

Tomorrow will be a holiday for Walt and me. We got married on May 10, 2012, in Albany, New York. That was 12 years ago. We had been living together for nearly 30 years at that point. The 9th anniversary of our move to France was coming up. We left the U.S. to come live in France on June 1, 2003, nearly 21 years ago now.

Right now, our weather has finally, and suddenly, turned warm and sunny. I don't know how long it's supposed to last, but I'll take it. We'll have a special lunch tomorrow for our anniversary. Maybe we'll be able to eat out on the front deck, which Walt pressure-washed yesterday to remove the algae and moss that had started growing on it during our rainy autumn, winter, and early spring.




The day before yesterday I roasted a whole chicken in the air fryer (friteuse sans huile) that we bought a couple of months ago. I wanted to see if it would fit in the air fryer. It did, and it was very good. I marinated it  for two hours it in a mixture of lemon juice, lemon zest, garlic, olive oil, dried chives, and dried oregano before cooking it for about an hour. The herbs turned a dark color but didn't taste burned.

08 May 2024

Peter and Jill in Saint-Aignan

Peter Hertzmann was one of our steadiest and most frequent visitors here in Saint-Aignan between 2004 and 2022. He passed away at age 75 last December. A day or two ago his wife Jill Chinen sent us these photos that she took on a few of their visits. Peter was a food writer and accomplished cook. It was always fun when Peter and Jill wereo here because we spent time shopping in outdoor markets and supermarkets, cooking, eating and drinking, including enjoying meals in restaurants. We also did some sightseeing, of course.


If you want to see and read more about Peter and Jill's visits to Saint-Aignan, follow this link. Before we met them in Palo Alto (California) in 2002, about six months before Walt and I moved to France, Peter's culinary specialty had been Chinese food. Sometime in the 1990s, I think it was, he had traveled to France and discovered a whole new cuisine, French. We were some of the fortunate beneficiaries of that discovery.

Jill took these photos between 2014 and 2017. I really like the one below because it shows how close and friendly Tasha our Sheltie and Bertie our black cat became almost immediately when we brought Tasha home in 2017.

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Here's Peters obituary, which appeared in the San Francisco Chronicle on May 5.

Peter S. Hertzmann, a longtime resident of Palo Alto and the past few years, of San Francisco, died at home on December 23, 2023 while under the care of Hospice. He was 75.

Peter was an exceptional man of many talents who enjoyed sharing his broad knowledge, especially on all aspects of food, computer applications, photography, and medical devices. He was proud to have been on the team that had worked on the lighting for the Space Shuttle in 1975-76. Peter was a cofounder of Laserscope, a medical laser company and held many patents in that field. His passion for learning and sharing his knowledge was such that if you had asked Peter for the time, he would have enthusiastically told you how to build a watch.

He enjoyed sharing information on food preparation and cooking by teaching at different venues, including volunteering at Job Train and the county jail. Peter also wrote several books: one on knife skills, another on amuse-bouche, and yet another on cooking techniques. To understand some current food cultures, he educated himself and others on food history; this led him to become an avid and long-time volunteer for the San Francisco Chinese Historical Society, giving docent walks of Chinatown. His most recent interest was in New York’s “Tenement Museum.” He also was a regular participant of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery, as well as the Dublin Gastronomy Symposium.

He is survived by his wife, Jill Chinen; his son, Aaron; his brother, Paul; and his sister- in-law, Susan Herzig. He is dearly missed by many of us who had the good fortune to have known him. Beneath his sharp wit lay a truly warm and gentle soul. In lieu of condolence gifts, his family requests that donations be made to the “Tenement Museum” in New York.

07 May 2024

May colors at la Renaudière

These photo show how May can look when we're having a good year in Saint-Aignan. So far, that is not the case in 2024. We're having a lousy year. Maybe things will change soon. That's what the Télématin weather forecaster, Valérie Maurice, is telling us today. The weekend promises to be clear, sunny, and warm. I'll believe it when I see (and feel) it.

06 May 2024

April showers...

...bring May flowers showers — at least this year they have. We had less rain than predicted yesterday, but the day was not rain-free. We did see the sun for a few minute over the course of the day. We'll just have to be content with that.


For me, both April and May have been times of discontentment. We haven't been able to get the vegetable garden plot ready for plantings because it's just too muddy out there. I've had a hard time getting my private insurance policy sorted out to figure out at what rate the upcoming cataract operations will be reimbursed. I still don't know. The other hassle has been getting my U.S. passport renewed. I'm still waiting with bated breath to see if my application will be accepted. See below for details.

I had special passport photos taken a few months ago. That set me back 25 euros. Still, I was happy that there is a photographer who has a special machine that lets her take photos of the size and clarity required by U.S. passport rules. A month ago, I decided I'd better get started on the process, even though my passport doesn't expire until December.

The process requires renewal of the passport by mail. It took me a while searching on the U.S. Embassy web site to find all the forms that needed to be filled out. I needed to send in my current passport, the completed forms, and a self-addressed pre-paid envelope that the embassy will use to send me my old passport back along with the new passport. People who need to renew a standard 10-year passport are not allowed to make an appointment and go to the embassy in person to renew it. Fine.

The embassy's instructions specify that the applicant needs to send the forms and the old passport to the embassy in Paris in a specific kind of envelope called a Colissimo "ready to send" envelope rated to hold documents that weigh a maximum of one kilogram (even though the documents and old passport weigh far less than that). Fine, even though that cost another 12 euros. The clerk at our village post office told me I should buy a different envelope sold there because it would cost much less. I didn't dare do that. I thanked him for the advice.

The instructions say that the self-addressed, pre-paid envelope I need to send to the embassy should also be rated to hold contents weighing a maximum of either 500 grams or one kilogram. The problem was he didn't have one in stock. Instead, he sold me a pre-paid envelope that was rated to hold only 250 grams. He weighed my passport and said it weighed just 100 grams so the two passport the embassy would send me wouldn't go over the weight limit. I bought it, but almost immediately I had second thoughts and doubts. What if the embassy staff rejected my application because I hadn't followed their rules?

A friend recommended I go across the river to Noyers-sur-Cher and try to buy the envelope the U.S. embassy required at the mail distribution center over there, which is a bigger post office than the one in our village. Off I went. When I got there, the clerk said she didn't have the required envelope either. She said those Colissimo envelopes were no longer sold by the French post office. She said she could sell me a second one-kilo envelope, but it wouldn't fit inside the one I already had unless I folded it in half, and that was expressly forbidden by the post office. Once folded, it would not be able to be used by the embassy to send my passports to me.

The clerk was very helpful, though. She said she had a different envelope, a plastic rather than cardboard one, that might work. It was rated to hold up to a kilogram of contents, and it was half the size of the other one-kilo envelope; it would fit inside the other one. She said it was not sold as a pre-paid envelope, however. The embassy would have to pay the postage to send it back to me. That won't work, I told her. I myself have to pay the postage fee.

Well, she said, I guess I'll just have to put stamps on it. The problem was, the stamps didn't want to stick to the envelope, which was made of flexible plastic, not cardboard. She had seven stamps to put on it, and it took her a while to lick each stamp and then lick some of them a second time to get them to stick. We had to wait a while for them to dry to make sure that they really had stuck to the plastic.

The clerk said that government offices, including the French school system, were being more and more strict about the kinds of envelopes customers were allowed to use to send the documents in, and at the same time the post office administrators had taken a lot of the previously available envelopes off the market. It's a chaotic situation, she told me. When we felt sure that the stamps had stuck to the envelope, I paid her 12 euros for that envelope as well. I asked her if it was possible to put strips of scotch tape over the stamps to make sure they stayed in place. She said that was not allowed.

At home, I would need to write my address on the plastic envelope before sending it on its way. I asked the clerk if it would be easy to write on the plastic envelope with a ball-point pen. I think so, she said, sounding doubtful. Then she tried the pen she had on her counter and it worked. She said, here, take this pen with you. It works. No charge. I thought that was nice of her. I felt bad for a woman who was behind me in line and waiting very patiently. The clerk also gave me a tracking number I would need to make sure my envelope had actually been received by the embassy after I sent it.

Now I'm looking at the post office tracking site on the web. It says my envoi has been distribué. I'm not sure what that means. I hope it means delivered and received. Meanwhile, I don't like being without a passport. What if I need to travel back to the U.S. for some kind of emergency? I have a French residency card so I shouldn't have problems here while I wait, but officially, I think, that my residency card is not really valid if I don't also have my U.S. passport to prove my identity. By the way, the renewal fee for the U.S. passport is $130.00 US. It will be valid for 10 years, assuming I actually receive it before it expires.

05 May 2024

Le joli mois de mai

May (fais ce qu'il te plaît) seems to me to be one of the rainiest months in this part of France. That goes against the conventional wisdom that says May is beautiful compared to, for example, April (ne te découvre pas d'un fil). It's not raining this morning but rain is forecast to start falling at mid-day and continue off and on this afternoon.








Dew on spring wildflowers around the Renaudière vineyard outside Saint-Aignan







Fog down in the Cher river valley on a May morning







A European goldfinch standing on the gravel out behind our house one day in May







A green lizard that the cat dragged in one May morning

This morning, more rain

This is what the weather radar map for France looks like this morning. I've put a red dot on the map showing where Saint-Aignan is located in relation to cities like Tours and Paris.

It was raining when I let Tasha out pour faire son pipi at 5 a.m. Then at about 6 a.m. there was a heavy shower that lasted 15 or 20 minutes. Now it has slacked off again, but it's still raining. There will probably be no morning excursion down to the outdoor market in Saint-Aignan today. That's okay though, because yesterday Walt went to the outdoor market in Montrichard and did our shopping there for the weekend.

I just glanced at the radar map again and the rain seems to be stationary for the time being. It's raining down near Limoges, at the headwaters of the Cher river, and there's a dark green blob headed that way. The danger from that is flooding along the Cher when the water comes flowing down toward us. It can't possibly soak into the ground, which is completely saturated after months and months of rain. Stay tuned.

03 May 2024

En mai, il y a 20 ans

These are some photos I took in May 2004, just a year after we came to live here. I was using a Kodak DC4800 camera back then. The results were good, I think. Flowers, skies, vineyards, and fruit. When we came here, I of course didn't know how long my retirement would last — in other words how long I would live. Anything could have happened...


It didn't rain yesterday, but it was gloomy almost all day. The sun is coming up right now, and I can actually see it! Still, there is a definite chill in the air. Spring has not yet sprung, but things are looking up for next week. As I've always said, you don't come to live in France for the fine weather. You come here for the history and language, the food and drink, the landscapes,  and the old monuments and buildings. I can't imagine ever living elsewhere now. Of course, I've been living here off and on for more than 50 years. It's time for a walk with Tasha.

02 May 2024

Sage on the garden path

Sage in French is la sauge. This plant grows on the edge of our back-yard path. It was growing there when we came to live in Saint-Aignan more than 20 years ago. I wish it was flowering right now the way it was when I took these photos on a day in May 2005.


It rained all day yesterday. It wasn't a hard rain, but it was steady and lasting. We've had above-average rainfall nearly every month since September 2023, according to the French weather and climate web site I follow to stay aware of such things.

All this reminds me of a summer a dozen or so years ago when it rained constantly. CHM was in Paris. Back then, I would call him a couple of times a week just to chat. (He wasn't yet as deaf as he was to become a few years later.) I'd call him and say: Bonjour Charles-Henry. Est-ce qu'il pleut à Paris ce matin ? Non, he would say. Pas encore !. And we would both laugh comme des enfants.

What ever happened to the drought here in France? Accuweather is forecasting a hot dry summer for 2024 in North America. I wonder if our summer in Western Europe will be like that. I hope not, actually.

01 May 2024

Our village (5)

I'm being fairly random this morning. Two shots of our village's "skyline". Three shots of yellow wild flowers, including one with an orange-and-black caterpillar on it. And then a cloudy sky over the green Renaudière vineyard. I took these on a sunny August day in 2008.


The weather woman on Télématin this morning spoke for all of us when she said, as she presented today's forecast: Ça continue, et nous en avons ras le bol. Il pleut, il fait froid, et aujourd'hui on va avoir des orages violents !

Today, by the way, is a big holiday.   It's the French Labor Day and there are supposed to be parades and marches all over the country.  Good luck!